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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
<span style="font-family:'Times New Roman';"><span style="font-size:medium;">I love working on my own bike(s). I already had a nice truing stand and I got a spoke tension meter for Xmas so I’m now getting into wheel building. I’ve totally laced two wheels using excess rims, hubs, and spokes laying around the garage just for practice. One front, one rear…and one rear wheel that I removed the dishing from to accommodate a single-speed freewheel. The front wheel I built is a 36-hole rim/hub but I built it in a 24 spoke, 2-cross pattern. I did all this pretty much for practice but they all ride surprisingly well.</span></span><br><br><span style="font-family:'Times New Roman';"><span style="font-size:medium;">I do have a couple technical questions if there are any other wheel builders in the forum.</span></span><br><br><span style="font-family:'Times New Roman';"><span style="font-size:medium;">Dan</span></span>
 

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FORCE--I am not sure what you just said--but it sure sounds cool! <img alt="smile.gif" src="http://files.kickrunners.com/smilies/smile.gif">---wanna build me some wheels--I can be there in 3 hours! ----sorry I cant answer your tech questions...gl in your search....
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
NB,<br>
I’d love to build you some wheels but I’m not confident enough yet…still practicing on my own wheels to gain some assurance. I’d hate for my inexperience in wheel building to result in an injury to you (and/or your bike). But I’ll keep your offer in mind and let you know when I’m ready.<br><br>
Ya know, I’ve realized that lacing and truing a wheel…for me…is like knitting, crocheting, or quilting. I just find it relaxing to sit in my garage after the kids are in bed and tweak a wheel into true.<br><br>
Dan<br><br>
P.S. Putting the spokes into a hub and rim is referred to “lacing.” There are various patterns you can lace depending on how many spokes you’re using. Spokes have to be evenly adjusted (tightened or loosened) to a specific tension for the wheel to be strong and true. “Dishing” is mostly for the rear wheel. You’ll notice that the spokes’ angle from the rim to the hub is different on the two sides of the rear wheel. Dishing is done to accommodate the gear cassette/freewheel. The more gears, the more dishing required.
 

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Best wheels I have ever seen were made by Dave Thomas--he did radial non-drive and 2 cross drive side before it got popular and runs spoke prep--the wheels are really bombproof--here's the stuff he uses:<br><br>
Rims: Velocity Aerohead/OC rear 425 gms ea.(velocityusa.com)<br>
Brake Type: Rim<br>
Front/Rear Weight: 585+gms / 770+gms grams<br>
Description:<br><br><br>
19mm ft.21mm r.(offset design) Rim Profile...<br>
20 Spoke Front(CX-ray),28 Spoke Rear,(Sapim Race/CX-ray)<br>
The AR20 is designed to provide the best"over the road" performance. A general purpose wheel must be compliant enough for comfort and control on rough pavement but also be "snappy" enough for response and handling. Strength and longevity are just as important as low rotational weight and good aerodynamics. The AR20 (aero road 20mm deep) isn't the lightest wheel on the planet nor the most aerodynamic,but probably IS the the best riding wheel (based on the aforementioned characteristics). The combination of low profile rims,lightweight spokes and specific spoke count provide a "tuned ride",with each component supplying just enough(but not too much)flex at the right moment. This wheelset is very similar to the designs that I produced over ten years ago. Back then, wheels like these were aimed at triathletes, but mine were strong enough for criteriums and training, and test editors at "Triathlete" magazine confirmed this fact,(see Triathlete article;exotic wheels April "92).<br><br>
Dave's Wheels has the best warranty in the business,"super light, not stupid light"<br><br>
Ft. 595 gms rear 760 gms(Classic/Tune hubs,see amclassic.com and tune.de)$649.00 Other hub options;White LTA with Titanium cassette body(see whiteind.com) 608gms ft./835gms r. $679.00 (steel cassette body +30gms $629.00)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
<span style="font-family:Verdana;">Ah ha! I used the spoke length calculator on the Sapim website. For the rear wheel the calculator asks for the number of crosses on left and the right side. But, it didn’t for the front and I wondered why. I’d heard of, but never seen a wheel laced with different patters on its left and right side. I’m not radical yet. I did a 24-spoke 2x pattern on a rear wheel and thought “I’m the man!”</span><br><br><span style="font-family:Verdana;">Twenty spoke wheel!?!? As a 6’ 2”, 200 lbs rider that sounds a bit scary to me.</span><br><br><span style="font-family:Verdana;">Dan</span>
 

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My understanding is the radial non drive side allows you to run a higher spoke tension so you can avoid the problem of spokes loosening. I've had good luck with a couple pairs of Roval wheels I bought for training last year
 
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