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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm so bummed. Finally bought the tri bike of my dreams (QR Seduza) three weeks ago (replaced Trek road bike). The first weekend that I rode it, I couldn't hang with my group and thought that I just had to get used to the more aggressive position. Got dropped again last weekend. Today was even worse, albeit windy so hard to compare. What is going on? I can barely get to 20 mph on this bike and often rode +2-3 mph faster on my old bike. The same phenomenon has been observed in my husband who bought the Caliente to replace his Klein road bike. We both love the way the TT bikes handle but are extremely frustrated about how slow we are on them. I can feel that I'm using way more hamstring and hip flexor on my new setup. Please tell me that it's just a matter of muscle memory and adjustment and that I'll be as fast or faster than I was on my old bike in time for my race at the end of April.<br><br>
Cheryl
 

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I don't have a tri bike...but heard they don't climb as well-what terrain you riding on?
 

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Did you get fit by a tri shop? Some of it will be different muscles; but, it is a different fit from road bikes.
 

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it's all about the fit.
 

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If you are doing a group ride on a tri bike out of the aero bars, it puts you in a lousy position to make power, the bike is designed to be ridden in the aero bars. For the group rides, you may want to just ride your old bike, I only train on my TT bike once or twice a week, it's uncomfortable and handles like crap. It's good to do your intervals and hard work on the TT bike, that's what it's made for.<br><br>
No worries, you need to give your body time to adjust, you may wish to slide the seat forward or backward to see how that makes you feel, the whole "pro fit" thing just gets you close, don't be afraid to mess with it some.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks everyone,<br><br>
Terrain is flat. No excuses there. Got fitted by guy at LBS who supposedly does all my tri group but now I'm not so sure. I'll have someone else check my position. True that I'm not on the bars because I'm riding and drafting with the group - but 50% of the other people in the group are also riding out of their bars and they're flying by me. Next week I'll go back to the road bike and see how I fare. I guess I'm a two bike gal, now. Not sure which one to ride when I do the oly in april since it's a technical course and I'll likely be out of the bars for quite a bit of it. I'm having major buyer's remorse. We just spent a ton of money and are now slower, more sore and less comfy on our bikes.<br><br>
CHeryl
 

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It takes time to get used to the straighter seatpost, plus it's uncomfortable and makes the front end heavy, but in the end it allows you to pedal in the aero bars with an open hip angle. Since you have still changed some of the underlying angles, you may make more power on the road bike, which overshadows the aerodynamic benefits.<br><br>
I'd also get a tape out and compare things like seat height and setback between the old and new bikes, height should be about the same for sure.<br><br>
Just ride the road bike on group rides if you like and make sure to do your intervals and tempo rides on the TT bike, you will get used to it in a few weeks. If you hate it, you can run a standard road bike with a Profile Jammer type bar and do OK. I get no pleasure from my TT bike, but it's clearly faster. if I stopped racing it I'd sell it in a heartbeat and just ride a road bike.
 

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have you pumped the tires up?<br><br><img alt="surprised.gif" src="http://files.kickrunners.com/smilies/surprised.gif">
 

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In case you have not done so yet, here's the measurments you need to use as a baseline between your old and new bike, you need a tape measure and either a plumbline or a large level:<br><br>
Seat height, center of BB to top of saddle<br>
setback--plub line from saddle nose down, measure length from plub line to center of bottom bracket<br>
cockpit--saddle nose to bar center<br>
bar drop--measure floor to top of saddle and floor to bar tops or arm rest tops, subtract second number from first<br><br>
See what you come up with and post it here, maybe you can snap a picture of you in the aero bars also. You should have the same seat height, much lower bar drop and much shorter cockpit on the new bike
 

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<span style="font-family:'Times New Roman';"><span style="font-size:medium;">Is your chain ring/gearing the same as on the old bike? Also, what about crank length? A difference of just a couple cm can affect your speed. Various tires…widths and material consistency…also have varying rolling resistance. All can add up to a couple mph.</span></span><br><br><span style="font-family:'Times New Roman';"><span style="font-size:medium;">Dan</span></span>
 

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You all sound way to smart for me. I am new to this cycling thing and just set the bike up to where I feel comfortable. I don't know if it is correct or not. But, I feel good riding. Hmmm! Maybe it is not optimum setup!
 

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I sometimes feel the same way on anything other than perfectly flat or a little downhill. The gearing is way different on my road bike than my tri bike...I have a compact on my road bike and spend a lot of time in the big ring...on the tri bike, I spend a lot more time in the little ring. It flys on the flats....uphill not so much, but for me it's a lot operator problems...I need stronger legs.
 

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You problem sounds to me like one or several of the things listed here. You either have a crap fit, your gearing is different enough to cause problems, or you just aren't used to the positioning. I'd slant toward the first part (bike fit), because most people I know who jump to a Tri-bike are faster. Not by much, but one thing is that few are slower. And I say this especially because the route you are using for comparison is flat. I say do a few more rides, and if you don't get used to it, find a level of discomfort, then bring it back for a better fit. Another option is to try to go hard. By trying to go hard, you will seek the most efficient position for power output, and if that position you seek is not within the realm of the current fit, you will know right away that the fit is crap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks for all of the suggestions. I will follow up and get back to you after a few more rides. Gearing is vastly different which I hadn't considered. I also forgot to mention that I went from 700 to 650 wheels which is an adjustment in and of itself (doesn't explain my husband's issues though). Maybe I'll upgrade my wheels. On a different subject, does anyone have an oval vs circular chain ring?<br><br>
Cheryl
 

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like a biopace ring? remember, you need taller gearing to compensate for the little wheels. I suspect you just need to be patient and perhaps fiddle with fit a little on your own.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thank you for the link. Yes, the biopace. I can't imagine that at my level of cycling it would make much of a difference, but I've had several people (not in retail) tell me that it made them quite a bit faster. I know that, ultimately, fast can't be bought and will only come with proper training. I just want to be able to hang with the group that I've been riding with for years on my new, very shiny, bike.<br><br>
Cheryl
 

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here's biopace info from the late sheldon brown:<br><a href="http://www.sheldonbrown.com/biopace.html" target="_blank">http://www.sheldonbrown.com/biopace.html</a>
 

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You're the bike shop's dream customer!!! "I just dropped a lot of money on a new bike and it doesn't seem to be as fast as I expected. I'll buy some new wheels!! A hypereliptosphere chain ring!!! Maybe get me some of that skunk oil rubbing compound to reduce aerodynamic drag!!!"<br><br>
You go girl!!!
 
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