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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I want to get clipless pedals and shoes--so I can feel like a real triathlete (lol)--but my budget does not allow for expensive ones--so what do you guys think of these--are they good ones or junk?<br><br>
pedals:<br><br><a href="http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?category=6000108&subcategory=60001123&brand=&sku=17884&storetype=&estoreid=&pagename=Shop%20by%20Subcat%3A%20Road%20Clipless%20Pedals" target="_blank">http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...pless%20Pedals</a><br><br>
shoes:<br><br><a href="http://www.performancebike.com/shop/profile.cfm?SKU=23515&estore_ID=1364" target="_blank">http://www.performancebike.com/shop/...estore_ID=1364</a>
 

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NB – I’m a budgetary conservative too. Those look like good deals to me and think I might pick up a set of those pedals for myself. I will tell you that years ago when I first started riding, clipless pedals were not widely used…or even available. Eventually I made the switch and to this day I consider going from toe clips to clipless as the most notable improvement in comfort on the bike. You won’t be sorry.<br><br>
Dan
 

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At the prices you're looking at, can't really go wrong with either choice to begin with.<br><br>
If you take a size 38, I'd go with:<br><a href="http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?category=600084&subcategory=60001042&brand=&sku=20398&storetype=&estoreid=&pagename=Shop%20by%20Subcat%3A%20Road%20Shoes" target="_blank">http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...20Road%20Shoes</a><br><br>
Personally, I prefer shoes with a buckle/ratchet. The velcro just seems to lose its grippiness after a while.<br><br>
Reg.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
another newbie question:<br><br>
when ordering your cycles shoes--do you order up, like you do your running shoes--or order the size shoe you normally wear?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
DAN and REG--thanks for the feedback <img alt="smile.gif" src="http://files.kickrunners.com/smilies/smile.gif"> I appreciate it!
 

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Just make sure you can return them if you don't like them. I've can't speak to those specific padals, but my experience with other inexpensive pedals hasn't been good. I have one pair that are so difficult to get out of, I used to just leave them on my bike and take my feet out of the shoes instead of clipping in and out. That works fine when on the trainer, and is actually good training, but not great when on the road.<br><br>
So give them a try, but find out if you can return them if you don't like them.<br><br>
Victor
 

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Yesterday I went and picked up a new pair of shoes to put some SPD's on for spin class. I asked for a 12, they gave me 14's. I didn't realize it til I put them on for class. Oops.<br>
I shall be returning them today.
 

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The pedals are OK. I have something similar on my bike. They were a bit difficult to get in and out fast at first, but after they got a little wear on them I've never had any problems.<br><br>
I would be more inclined to get a triathlon specific shoe. They are easier to get on/off quickly and are designed to be worn sockless. I use the Performance Forte shoes.
 

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I got my son's shoes from Nashbar. Ordered 'em online, then Christmas morning he tries 'em on and they were w-a-y too small! I called them, and they were VERY helpful. We were going cheap, so they helped me find cheap shoes, then if we needed to go up or down sizes by each brand.<br><br>
I went to Performance store to get this last pair of shoes for my son. They weren't too helpful, but I knew what we wanted and we really only had one or two options.<br><br>
I have Pearlizumi shoes. I guess they are regular road shoes. They have 3 straps. I only loosen two of the straps. I've only done one tri, and my transitions were just over a minute, so I don't think that extra strap cost me that much time.
 

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For me...ordering cyclying shoes...I'd order my normal size. Running shoes I get a size bigger because I'm running in them and I like extra room for my toes. I find that I like my cycling shoes more fitting. But, you may feel differently.<br><br>
Dan
 

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I suspect those are Welgo or similar pedals. The bearings will be of low quality and perhaps they will not use bearings at all, but will use a bushing that will quickly get wobbly. The hardening on the axle races will be total crap and the bearings will quickly wear a groove into the races, causing more slop. The spings are weak and as the pedals wear they can be prone to pre release, but for a lighter rider they might work out OK.<br><br>
I'd rather gouge my eye out with a railroad spike that ride on some Chinese knockoff pedals, but I've gone over the bars from having pedals release on me.<br><br>
The shoes look ok--in terms of size you go pretty tru to size, you don't want your feel slopping around, I wear mine quite tight in fact, much tighter than I'd pick a running shoe.
 

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<br><br><span style="color:#000000;">Now I remember, the pedals I mentioned earlier, the ones I couldn't get out of, were Welgo pedals. They came with my last bike, but quickly got moved to my beater bike, which mostly sits on my bike trainer. I'd use an old fashioned pair of clip and strap pedals before I use another pair of Welgo pedals.</span><br><br><span style="color:#000000;">Victor</span>
 

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I have the Vagabond 3 shoe and it's a decent shoe for that price. I got mine from Sierra Trading Post for a few bucks cheaper than those, but that was 4 months ago.<br>
Certainly, you can find much better shoes out there, but they are fine for entry level. They run pretty true to size. For me, I bought one size down (on the European sizing) from my normal street shoe. It's a snug fit, but I don't want my foot sliding around in there.
 

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Not to pick on Welgo or Nashbar, but if you look at the pedal, all they did was take the design that look developed 10 years ago and reverse engineered it, I assume after the patent protection expired. I find that type of business model to be pretty much bottom feeding off the innovations and ideas of others while contributing only a willingness to use the cheapest possible materials in construction to market to riders who lack experience and need quality equipment as much as anyone else.<br><br>
I guess I don't have a real warm spot in my heart for the whole sector of the bike industry or for Nashbar in serving as their storefront.
 

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I have Pearl Izumi shoes, and I had to go 1/2 size up. I wear a 7.5 in running shoes (and all shoes, really), but my cycling shoes are an 8. Their clothing runs small too. I wear a small in cycling jerseys, but I have to get a medium in PI stuff.<br><br>
As far as the pedals, I don't know too much, but I bet you can get some Shimano pedals for under $50. My LBS had some for $50, and they were not on sale. For example, here's the pedal I have (or something similar), and it's $60 not on sale. Performance OFTEN puts stuff on sale for 20-25% off.<br><a href="http://www.performancebike.com/shop/profile.cfm?SKU=18304&subcategory_ID=10046" target="_blank">http://www.performancebike.com/shop/...egory_ID=10046</a><br>
So, I'd probably wait for a good sale on a Shimano or Look pedal instead. This is not something you will need to replace for a LONG time, so you might as well get something good. Shoes you will replace more often, but I wouldn't skimp on the pedals.
 

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Here are some for $38.<br><a href="http://www.gearlink.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=PD4042&Source=Google" target="_blank">http://www.gearlink.com/itemdesc.asp...&Source=Google</a><br><br>
You have to decide what type you want as well. I've got the SPD-SL, which are like Look. I like them, but the cleat is not the easiest to walk in for tris. Not much I can do now. I manage fine. They also make pedals with a platform as well, if you think you'd want to ride your bike without bike shoes ever. I went with whatever the LBS guys told me to get, and I'm happy.
 

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Yeah, I'm with jroden on this.<br><br>
I know you've mentioned budget reasons, but the pedals are in my opinion your body's most important connection to the bike (could be 2nd behind your saddle). For that reason, you should get quality not just whatevers cheapest.<br><br>
I also don't trust the second hand design methods, like jroden. I usually stick with companies that have made quality products for years. For pedals, I typically stick with Looks or Shimanos. I know both can be spendy, but the price is worth it and they always come through when a warranty issue comes up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks guys! You ALL have given me some food for thought--need to do some more research and look at the links you posted--keep the info, reviews, and opinions coming! <img alt="smile.gif" src="http://files.kickrunners.com/smilies/smile.gif">
 

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I am still a total rookie with my clipless pedals and still a little bit terrified of being attached to my bike by the feet! I have those Vagabond R4 shoes, and for the limited time I've had them, I have no complaints at all. And I am VERY particular about the shoes I wear on normal basis. I got a good deal too, and since I'm not really wearing them of for walking or running, they seem to be quite adequate for me at this stage. I wear a 10-10.5 and the 41 (same as my Danskos) fit me just fine.<br><br>
Can't help much with the pedals. Mine are Speedplay Light Action (I think) and I like them. As much as I could like any clipless pedal right now.<br><br>
Good luck. The move to clipless is a good one, but there is definitely a learning curve (i.e. you WILL fall off your bike at some point!)
 

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To add another opinion to the arena, I was reading Bicycling Mag this afternoon, and in the buyers guide, it has a save vs splurge section. In the "what to save on" side, it has the pedals, and on the "splurge" side is says shoes. The reasoning behind saving on pedals:<br><br><i>Pricey pedals are a bit lighter thanks to techy materials such as carbon and titanium. But you'll notice little to no performance bump compared with midrange models of chromoly or glass fiber. Quality, workhorse pedals cost $100 to $150, half that of the feathery ones. And generic pedals compatible with Shimano SPD Or Look Delta Cleats go for as little as $35.</i>
 
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